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Setup MIDI on your Mac OSX computer
How to calibrate your recording levels

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 Sunday, January 07, 2007
Sunday, January 07, 2007 9:16:19 PM (Central Standard Time, UTC-06:00) (  |  |  )
I noticed a lot of people asking this question "How do I setup MIDI on my Mac OSX computer (Macbook, Mac Pro, or PowerPC)" so I hope to write a simple and short tutorial for this.

This procedure or steps has been tested on OSX running on PowerPC and Intel chips. It has worked from a simple 2x2 interface to a full-blown 8x8 midi router/merger interface.

1. Connect your midi interface to your Mac computer. Most probably, this will be done via USB. Some models are connected via firewire, but usually, these are combo units. i.e. audio interface and midi interface.

If you need to install drivers for your midi device, go ahead and install it and follow the manufacturer's direction. Depending on the manufacturer, it could be a simple click on a Setup program, or manually copying files to your hard drive.

2. Open up Applications > Utilities




3. Click on Audio Midi Setup.



4. Click on Midi Devices



5. At this point, if the device driver was installed successfully, (and the device is powered on), you will see it represented on your Audio Midi Setup screen.  You can change the icon representation by double-clicking on the device, and selecting a photo from the list of options provided.

Note: If you want "custom" icons for your Audio Midi Setup, I'll show that to you on another lesson.



On the above screenshot, you can see my Edirol 8x8 midi interface, and my MOTU 828mk2 audio/midi interface. For this setup, we'll just the midi ports on the Edirol 8x8 unit.

Click on "Add Device"
 Thursday, November 23, 2006
Friday, November 24, 2006 3:10:28 AM (Central Standard Time, UTC-06:00) (  |  |  )
A few years ago, the common wisdom was to "record as hot as you can." By HOT, I don't mean temperature wise. The wisdom at that time was to record your signal (from your guitar, keyboard, mic, etc.) so that the on-screen digital VU meters on your ProTools, Logic, DP, or Sonar is just hitting 0 dB, but not going over. Everybody knows that as soon as the red light turns on, you'll get clipping and digital clipping sounds nasty... like a fingernail scratching on a blackboard. ... The above argument sounds LOGICAL. There was even talk "you must use all of the bits as much as possible, so 0dB must be 1111111111111111 and that's good since we used up all the bits, nothing got wasted."

But something got forgotten along the way by the people who advised you to record close to 0dB in your DAW (Digital Audio Workstation... just a fancy name for a fast computer optimized for audio recording).